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BY Nancy Mueller Leave a Comment ON December 28, 2015

Florida Keys & Key West Winter Getaway

Florida Keys

As you gaze into your 2016 crystal travel ball, imagine a getaway to one of North America’s friendliest, most fun-loving destinations. Head to the southernmost site of the U.S. – the Florida Keys & Key West – for your great winter (or anytime) escape. Enjoy blue, sunny skies, soft, sub-tropical breezes and emerald waters as you kick back, feed the fishes and sip a mojito, or two.

The Florida Keys

Book a flight directly into Key West or into Miami International Airport (MIA) to catch a shuttle or rent a car to the Florida Keys, a string of upper, middle and lower islands stretching from Key Largo to Islamorada, Marathon, Big Pine Key and finally, Key West, covering 125 miles. Highway 1 connects the Florida Keys to the mainland and the shuttle drive from MIA takes an estimated 3.5 to 4 hours (with drop-offs) at the highway’s highest speed limit of 55 mph.

Key West Historic 7-Mile Bridge

Florida Keys Historic 7-Mile Bridge

For your ultimate stay and play vacation, here are a few fun activities to add to your playdate in paradise.

Voyage on the African Queen.

In Key Largo, hop aboard history with a 1.5 – 2 hour day or dinner cruise on the one and only recently-restored (2011) African Queen from the same-named classic film starring Humphrey Bogart and Kathryn Hepburn. Channel your inner Bogart and Hepburn with a turn at the helm and blow of the steamboat whistle.

Go Deep-Sea Fishing.

Captain Skip Bradeen

Continue your fun getaway with someone widely-respected as one of Florida’s national treasures, Long Island-bred Captain Skip Bradeen, who has been plying the waters of the Florida Keys for over 50 years.

Captain Skip’s musical medley on board sets an easy-living tone on his charter boat, Blue Chip Too. Apart from his mellifluous New York accent, we’re welcomed with throwback tunes like Mack the Knife, Cathy’s Clown, I’m Gonna Sit Right Down and Write Myself a Letter, and Kissing and a Hugging with Fred. 

Catch of the Day

Our afternoon mission, should we choose to accept it – and of course, we do – is to land red or yellow-tailed snapper, marlin, grouper, sailfish or possibly “shock”for our evening dinner. “What kind of fish is that, Captain Skip?” “Shock! Shock!” For a minute, we’re confused. Then we get it. “Ahh – shark!” Though the sharks elude us, by the end of our afternoon adventure, we manage to capture enough of the others to “cook our catch”  later that evening at Lazy Days Restaurant in Islamorada.

Kayak through Mangroves.

While adventure enthusiasts can follow the Florida Keys’ paddling trail from Key Largo to Key West, we opt for a shorter, alternate route through the quiet, backcountry No Name mangrove. What is a mangrove exactly? Just ask Captain Bill Keogh of Big Pine Kayak Adventures who together with his trusted canine companion leads our group of kayakers through a lush, mysterious waterway, a forested marine ecosystem for sea- and birdlife.

As we navigate through the shallow waters, paddling where possible or pulling ourselves forward on the branches dangling overhead, Captain Bill points out the abundance of wildlife all around us. It’s hard to imagine a more satisfying, peaceful way to spend an afternoon while learning about the colorful creatures who live here.

Explore Key West.

Sloppy Joe's

For an overview of popular sites and tourist attractions in Key West, we take the “hop on-hop off” Old Town Trolley sightseeing tour with thirteen stops along the way. Our ride includes a cruise down Duval Street, famous for its festivals and parades, shopping and bars like Jimmy Buffet’s Margaritaville, Hard Rock Cafe, Sloppy Joe’s and the Bull & Whistle.

Hemingway Studio

Of course no stay in Key West would be complete for Hemingway aficionados without a visit to his home, now a museum. From the estate’s luxurious grounds with built-in swimming pool, to the purring six-toed cats that grace the premises, to a guided tour through the Spanish colonial-style home and writer’s studio, the site offers a fascinating peek into Hemingway’s life during his years in Key West. The author’s legend lives on in the fun Papa Look-Alike contest held annually during Hemingway Days in July.

Key West Butterfly

Visitors can walk through a bird and butterfly wonderland at The Key West Butterfly & Nature Conservatory, another popular Key West attraction on the tour. Vibrant. Magical. Calming. Soft background music adds to nature’s sounds of cascading water and birdsong as we stroll among the tropical flora and fauna in the glass-enclosed surroundings. Exotic species of birds and butterflies fly freely around us. Occasionally a butterfly lights on one lucky visitor, while the rest of us gaze at the magnificent colors up close and personal.

Mallory Square

You have to love a town where locals and tourists gather nightly to view and celebrate sunset as a community event. Jugglers, musicians, artisans, and psychics all contribute to the festive atmosphere that takes over Mallory Square each evening starting two hours before sunset.

Key West Sunset Cruise

Or how about a quieter celebration with a sunset cruise? So many choices, each equally fun and memorable.

Eat, Drink and Make Merry.

Hogfish Bar & Grill

Hogfish Bar & Grill

Enjoy oceanfront and open-air dining at several restaurants throughout the Florida Keys and Key West. Whether having breakfast at the Morada Bay Beach Cafe or lunch at The Hungry Tarpon where you can feed silver kings from your bucket of baitfish in Islamorada; whether starting your day with huge cinnamon and sticky buns at Bob’s Bunz or having lunch at Hogfish Bar and Grill where the specialty is – you guessed it – fresh, flavorful hogfish; whether you “cook your catch” for dinner at Lazy Days Restaurant in Islamorada, check in for dinner at El Meson de Pepe, a Cuban restaurant, or Half Shell Raw Bar in Key West; whether you meet for breakfast at Blue Heaven in Key West’s Bahama Village Neighborhood (also the site of Friday-night boxing matches once refereed by Hemingway himself) or Mangrove Mama’s in Summerland Key – you can count on having fresh seafood, key lime pie and mojitos on the menu.

Key Lime Pie from El Meson de Pepe

Key Lime Pie from El Meson de Pepe

And remember – it’s never too early in the day for key lime pie. You be the judge about the mojitos.

For more information, visit The Florida Keys & Key West.

Many thanks to The Florida Keys & Key West for the chance to experience “Prime Time in Paradise.” Some, though not all, of my expenses were covered by my hosts.

Wander on!

Nancy

What about you, wanderboomers? What are your favorite recommended experiences when visiting The Florida Keys & Key West? 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Filed Under: Activities, Baby Boomers and Travel, Florida, Food & Dining, Travel Experiences Tagged With: 7-Mile Bridge, African Queen, butterfly, fishing, Florida, Hemingway, kayaking, key lime pie, Key West, sunset, The Florida Keys

BY Nancy Mueller 5 Comments ON July 29, 2015

How to Make the Most of Your Great Escape to Charlevoix, Québec

Parc national des Grands-Jardins

The more I travel to Québec, Canada, the longer I want to stay . . . From following the culinary trail in Montréal, to celebrating Winter Carnival in Québec City, to sampling the restorative spas in Lanaudière and Mauricie . . .

For my latest exploration, I’m off to the charming Charlevoix region an hour northeast of Québec City for a few days of summer play. Infused with the natural beauty of a mountainous landscape, plus the immensity of the St. Lawrence River (Fleuve Saint-Laurent), the area attracts outdoor enthusiasts, art & culture lovers and passionate foodies.

Recreational adventures abound here – hiking, biking, kayaking, whale-watching, and star-gazing, with plenty of culinary discoveries and comfortable lodgings along the way – making Charlevoix, a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve, the perfect getaway for traveling solo, with friends or family.

Take a Hike and Discover the Via Ferrata.

Hotel Le Germain Charlevoix

After an overnight stay and tasty breakfast at Québec City’s Hôtel Royal William in the trendy New St-Roch district, we’re off on our road trip to discover the wonders of Charlevoix. Upon arrival, we drop our bags at Hôtel Le Germain Charlevoix, our home-away-from-home for the night. Contemporary in style, the hotel combines artistic, urban sophistication with country ambiance, in a nod to its cultural and historical roots.

Hiking Parc national des Grands-Jardins

Following a lunch that features flavors of the region, we head out for a light afternoon hike at Parc national des Grands-Jardins. My first clue that our planned activity entails a bit more than light hiking comes when we meet our guide who offers helmets and harnesses for our venture. Uh-oh.

Waivers signed, we start our hike, pausing occasionally to take in the spellbinding views and snap a few photos, and for some of us to catch our breath. Made it!

But wait – our guide leads us to the “Practice Rock,” the first step to the via ferrata circuit on the Mont du Lac des Cygnes. Uh-oh, again.

via ferrata Tourisme Quebec

Way too slowly, it dawns on me: Via ferrata. Translation: “Iron Way.” Ohhh. Now I get it. Mountain climbing, of sorts, with cables and clips and pegs, oh my! Where’s my high school French when I need it?

Willing to keep an open mind for the promise of spectacular views on a safe itinerary, I give it a go, but within a few upward steps, I learn my limit while translating the phrase, “Geez Louise” to my Quebecois host. Instead, I opt to take the trail back down to the lodge and wait for the others to follow. But for other wanderboomers in our group, the via ferrata proves irresistible. Challenging, sure, but ultimately rewarding. The rest of us applaud their accomplishment as we head to Le Saint-Pub Microbrewery in the heart of Baie-Saint-Paul to celebrate. Cheers!

Go Kayaking on Rivière du Gouffre.

With the new dawn comes a new adventure – river kayaking! After a short, hands-on demo on how to hold and use our paddles, our small group of single and double kayaks heads out on our 6 km (roughly 3.7 miles) expedition. Easy whitewaters and shallow waters make for a fun outing for novice and experienced kayakers alike as we descend down the Rivière du Gouffre to Baie-Saint-Paul.

A few beachings, seaweed entanglements and waves of laughter later, we thank our guide for the chance to explore beautiful Charlevoix from the water’s edge.

Bike Around Isle-aux-Coudres.

After a quick stop to pick up boxed lunches, we board the ferry to Isle-aux-Coudres for our next outdoor adventure, a bike tour of the island, with a few planned stops along the way. My Charlevoix host sets the pace on our tandem bike as we pedal along on the flat, country roads while enjoying the soft summer air and scenic views.

Before long we arrive at our first destination: Les Moulins de L’Isle-aux-Coudres, the unique site of an authentic working watermill, restored windmill and miller’s residence. We watch as guides demonstrate how wheat and buckwheat are ground into flour at the mill, explaining the process in both French and English.

All that biking worked up a thirst! Fortunately, we happen to be close to a cidery, Cidrerie Vergers Pedneault, the next stop on our island tour. Our cider tastings include several of the cidery’s award-winning artisan apple, pear, plum and Saskatoon berry products. Yum!

Discover Innovative Regional Cuisine.

Dining at Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu

Charlevoix is a food lover’s paradise easily discovered by following the region’s Flavor Trail from Petite-Rivière-Saint-François to La Malbaie. Over 40 regional growers, producers and chefs welcome visitors along the trail with delicious gourmet treats like artisan breads and pastries, pates, charcuterie, chocolate, honey, duck, pork, cheese, ciders and beer.

Playing Golf at Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu

After our afternoon adventure on the Isle-aux-Coudres, we check in at the historic Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu overlooking the St. Lawrence River in La Malbaie. On site, we continue our regional and classical cuisine discoveries at Le Charlevoix Restaurant with Executive Chef, Patrick Turcot, who introduces us to delectable trout carpaccio from les Eboulements, pan-seared scallops and foie gras with calvados and apple crisp, seared crab salad and red pepper cream and maple salmon gravlax, puffed quinoa salad and roasted almonds. Time to go hiking, biking and kayaking again!

Enjoy a Night of Star-gazing.

What better evening entertainment than a star-gazing session at the Astronomy Observatory (Observatoire Astronomique)? In partnership with the Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu, the observatory invites guests to search the skies with specialized telescopes under the guidance of scientifically-trained staff. Visitors can also take a self-guided tour of a scale model of the solar system by following a 3 km (just under 2 miles) trail along the St. Lawrence River.

Curious about the landscape and geology of the region? Through exhibits and lectures at the observatory, you can learn how the impact of a 15 billion tons’ meteorite that hit 350 million years ago created the mountainous character of Charlevoix.

Take a Whale-watching Zodiac Cruise.

Whale watching Quebec

On our last day in Charlevoix, we’re all suited-up in weather-resistant gear and ready to start our whale-watching adventure for the chance to see blue, fin, minke, humpback and beluga whales at play. In calm waters, before long we spot several seals near our boat while holding out hope for whale sightings. Success! Not only do we see several fin and minke, but our naturalist on board points to the horizon where a couple of belugas are swimming near shore. Moments later, a mama and baby beluga pass our zodiac where earlier we had watched one whale shoot towards our zodiac like a torpedo, only to veer away at the last moment. Wow.

Hop Aboard the Train Léger de Charlevoix.

Train Leger de Charlevoix

As we near the end of our Charlevoix journey, we have time for one more excursion before returning to Québec City: a rail cruise via The Charlevoix Light Rail Transit. Fun. Easy. Relaxing. We wind our way along the shoreline, mesmerized by views of the stunning river and mountain landscape, daydreaming about our unforgettable Charlevoix adventure.

View from Train Leger de Charlevoix

Many thanks to Tourisme Québec for hosting our days of summer play in Charlevoix!

For more information visit:

Lodging:
Hotel Royal William
Hôtel Le Germain Charlevoix
Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu
Hôtel Chateau Laurier Québec

Activities:
Parc national des Grands-Jardins
Katabatik
Vélo-Coudres
Croisieres AML
Les Moulins de L’Isle-aux-Coudres
Train Leger de Charlevoix

Eateries & Cidery:
Le Saint-Pub Microbrewery
Resto-Boutique La Table
Cidrerie Vergers Pedneault
Pains d’Exclamation
Café Chez Nous

Wander on!

Nancy

What about you, wanderboomers? What’s your favorite place to visit in Quebec? 

Filed Under: Activities, Alabama, Baby Boomers and Travel, By Land, By Ship & By Sea, Canada, Destinations, Hiking, Québec Tagged With: Biking, Charlevoix, hiking, kayaking, Québec, St. Lawrence River, star gazing, via ferrata, whale-watching

BY Nancy Mueller 8 Comments ON February 9, 2012

Alaska’s Tenakee Springs

The Island Spirit

The Island Spirit

For cruise travelers looking for waterways off the beaten path, it’s hard to beat Alaska’s Inside Passage. Bays, coves and inlets draw small ships to their shores where time is measured by incoming tides and seasonal shifts.

Waterfront in Tenakee SpringsAmong the small, remote communities found here, Tenakee Springs stands out. Within this peaceful enclave, colorful homes perch on pilings in a single line along the waterfront. Each share a heart-stopping view of the surrounding snow-capped mountains and wildlife. Behind the buildings runs the only road through town, an unpaved path for walking and biking.

At the dock we’re greeted by friendly canines who accompany us on our stroll through town. We linger at the Tenakee Hot Springs Lodge, before moving on to the beautifully restored St. Francis Chapel, followed by Snyder’s Mercantile for coffee, pastries and a few mementos of our visit.

I can easily imagine holing up here for a couple of weeks, hiking the nearby trails, kayaking in calm waters, whale-watching, only to cap off the days with good, long soaks in the hot springs.

After catching up on my sleep, I’d browse the stacks at the Dermott O’Toole Memorial Library, borrow a few books, and most certainly start writing my travel memoir. Ahh . . .

Have you cruised Alaska’s Inside Passage, Wanderboomers? If not, what are you waiting for?? If so, what’s your favorite spot?

Filed Under: Activities, Alaska, Baby Boomers and Travel, By Land, By Ship & By Sea, Destinations Tagged With: Alaska, bays, coves, cruise, Cruising, Dermott O'Toole Memorial Library, hiking, hot springs, inlets, Inside Passage, kayaking, small-ship cruises, small-ship cruising, Snyder's Mercantile, St. Francis Chapel, Tenakee Hot Springs Lodge, Tenakee Springs, the Island Spirit, whale-watching, whales, wildlife

BY Nancy Mueller 12 Comments ON October 13, 2011

Land of the Iguanas

Can you spot the marine iguanas in this photo?

With the night of choppy seas behind us, our morning dawns bright on the youngest of the Galapagos Islands, Fernandina. For me, this is the most other-worldly island of all . . .

From our dry landing at Punta Espinosa (Espinosa Point), we set off on a leisurely three-hour walk to witness earth in its most primitive state. Along the way fellow passengers call out to each other:  “Watch your step. Look where you’re walking” which I take as a reference to the uneven volcanic rocks on our path. But a sudden movement underfoot rivets my attention.

A marine iguana stirs. It takes a nanosecond for me to realize that I’m standing in the midst of a large colony of oversized lizards coating the entire surface of surrounding black lava rocks. So these are the creatures Darwin referred to as “disgusting . . . clumsy . . .  imps of darkness.”

Sure they spit from time to time as they expel sea salt from their glands, leaving them with little white crowns. But I’m entranced by these gentle lizards. Most stand frozen, some resting on top of others, playing their own primitive version of the children’s game, “Statues.” The sight is all the more remarkable because of their size and abundance. Gradually, as the iguanas are warmed by the sun, they begin to move, with some heading out toward sea, searching for food.

Not everyone who visits the Galapagos Islands makes it this far west to Fernandina. But it’s high on my list of favorite islands. Not just for the marine iguanas, the only seagoing lizards in the world, but also for the chance to see the endemic (native to Fernandina) flightless cormorant.

Our naturalist guides, Alex and Jorge, explain that the cormorant evolved without the need to fly since they have no predators to fear on the island and food is close by.

Fernandina is also worth a visit because not only is it the youngest of the Galapagos Islands, but also one of the most active volcanically. Alex shares his childhood memory of the sound wave from the 1968 explosion that pushed him to the ground on San Cristobal, over 200 kilometers (almost 125 miles) away. Alex tell us that the ash from the eruption was carried as far away as the Pacific Northwest and recorded in Colorado as equivalent to the force of 5 nuclear bombs. Yikes.

But all is calm on the day of our sunny visit here. We view the smooth pahoehoe, rope-like lava all around. On Alex’s recommendation, we take time out to sit in this “zen garden of lava” and contemplate the surroundings which he finds “very soothing for the spirit.”

Following lunch on board our small ship, the MV Evolution, we’re off to seahorse-shaped Isabela Island, the largest in the Galapagos.  From our dry landing at Tagus Cove, we take a power hike to Darwin’s Lake with spectacular views of Darwin’s Volcano. We round out our day’s adventure with kayaking, panga snorkeling and a panga ride.

Next up: a 15 hour cruise to North Seymour Island before ending our trip on San Cristobal.

Filed Under: Activities, Baby Boomers and Travel, By Land, By Ship & By Sea, Destinations, Galapagos Islands, Health & Safety Tagged With: Charles Darwin, contemplation, Darwin, Darwin's Lake, Darwin's Volcano, endemic, eruption, Espinosa Point, evolution, Fernandina Island, flightless cormorant, Galapagos Islands, garden, hike, hiking, imps of darkness, Isabela Island, kayaking, lava, lizard, M/V Evolution, marine iguanas, naturalist, North Seymour Island, Pahoehoe lava, panga, panga ride, Punta Espinosa, San Cristobal, Santa Cruz Island, seahorse, snorkeling, spirit, statue, statues, Tagus Cove, volcano, zen

BY Nancy Mueller 6 Comments ON October 5, 2011

A Bird’s Eye View of Genovesa Island

Every day spent in the Galapagos Islands is a nature lover’s delight. But for anyone passionate about birdwatching, Genovesa (Tower) Island in the Galapagos is a must-see destination. And if you weren’t passionate about seabirds before your visit, you will be by the time you leave.

On Day 5 of our small-ship cruise, we’re visiting this serene, pristine northern island for our only chance to see red-footed boobies. If we’re lucky, we might even catch a glimpse of a short-eared owl.

Oh – and did I mention nazca boobies, red-billed tropical birds, great frigate birds, storm petrels, lava herons, large cactus finches, Galapagos doves, mockingbirds and swallow-tailed gulls?

For a birder, I don’t know what would be worse: never seeing this home to a million seabirds – or visiting and then having to leave.

Crescent-shaped Tower Island is an enormous caldera, a large crater formed by a volcanic collapse. For this reason, the island is relatively flat, rising a scant 250 feet (just over 76 meters) above the water surface. Wave erosion has worn away one wall of the sunken volcano, creating an inlet known as Darwin’s Bay, one of two accessible visitor sites.

An 8AM panga ride treats us to our first view of the numerous bird colonies along the jagged cliffs before our “dry” landing at Prince Philips Steps. Located on the eastern side of the island, the steps are so-named because of the Prince’s visit here in the early ’60’s. The steps up the rockface are challenging, but doable for all in our group thanks to handrails, fellow passengers and our naturalist guides,  Whew! After a steep climb up the steps, we arrive on a plateau for a walking tour of the the bird nesting areas.

From here we take in the panoramic views and learn about one of the primary bird nesting areas, the aromatic “palo santo” ( “holy stick”) forest.

The resin oils and wood from the trees are used to produce incense and oils used for healing practices. Hence, the name “holy stick.” Cactus abounds here, including prickly pear cactus

and lava cactus that grow atop the lava fields despite the barren landscape.

After a turn at kayaking in the choppy waters following lunch, I decide my skills are better suited for calmer waters – a sentiment surely echoed by my Australian paddle buddy. To his credit, he never once pointed out who was doing most of the paddling . . .

Filed Under: Activities, Baby Boomers and Travel, By Land, By Ship & By Sea, Destinations, Galapagos Islands Tagged With: Australia, birding, birds, birdwatching, caldera, Darwin Bay, Galapagos doves, great frigatebirds, holy stick genovesa Island, inlet, kayaking, large cactus finches, lava cactus, lava heron, mockingbirds, Nazca Boobies, Palo Santo, palo santo incense, palo santo oil, prickly pear cactus, Prince Philip's Steps, red-footed boobies, short-eared owl, storm petrels, swallow-tailed gulls, Tower Island, volcano

Hello fellow wanderboomers! I’m a Seattle-based travel journalist, specializing in fun travel adventures for the young at heart. My articles have been featured in Hemispheres, AAA Highroads Magazine and Northwest Travel & Life Magazine where I'm a frequent contributor. When this Wanderboomer isn’t traveling, I help global executives polish their personal and professional brand for long-term results.
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