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BY Nancy Mueller 6 Comments ON April 8, 2013

G is for Getaway to the Galápagos Islands

BlueBooby(600 x 399) (450 x 299)

The fragile, moon-like landscape of the Galápagos Islands lures more than 100,000 visitors each year despite the archipelago’s remote location 600 miles off the west coast of mainland Ecuador. Ever since Darwin‘s famed visit aboard the HMS Beagle in 1835, travelers have been enchanted by its history, exotic vegetation and wildlife.

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In order to protect the eco-system of this UNESCO World Heritage Site as much as possible, the Ecuadorian government restricts the number of cruises that can visit each island at any one time. But you don’t have to worry about missing out: each of the 13 major islands, from the oldest in the East (Española) to the most recent (Fernindina) in the west, offers unique flora and fauna diversity for an extraordinary experience.

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To plan your own escape to the Galápagos Islands, choose from among a variety of tour options, including 8-day small-ship cruises, shorter-stay lodge-based day trips, and combined land/islands packages. Visit Ecuador’s Ministry of Tourism site or discovergalapagos.com for more information.

In case you missed the travelogue of my own 2011 journey to the Galápagos,  you can catch up on my stories here:

http://bit.ly/12CrGLs                 http://bit.ly/10Bvo84                   http://bit.ly/Z4pXhV                         http://bit.ly/XoJd9q

http://bit.ly/10BvTyT               http://bit.ly/XoJiK8                        http://bit.ly/Yc8o0H                        http://bit.ly/Zxc8vt 

http://bit.ly/10Bx0ia                http://bit.ly/16J79ae                     http://bit.ly/XzY4Ai

MVEvolutionGalapagosIslands (450 x 338)

What about you, wanderboomers? Have you visited the Galápagos Islands yet?

 

 

 

 

 

Filed Under: Activities, Baby Boomers and Travel, Ecuador, Galapagos Islands Tagged With: archipelago, cruises, Darwin, diversity, eco-system, Ecuador, Espanola, Fernindina, flora and fauna, HMS Beagle, landscape, small-ship cruises, the Galapagos Islands, UNESCO World Heritage Site, vegetation, wildlife

BY Nancy Mueller 12 Comments ON October 13, 2011

Land of the Iguanas

Can you spot the marine iguanas in this photo?

With the night of choppy seas behind us, our morning dawns bright on the youngest of the Galapagos Islands, Fernandina. For me, this is the most other-worldly island of all . . .

From our dry landing at Punta Espinosa (Espinosa Point), we set off on a leisurely three-hour walk to witness earth in its most primitive state. Along the way fellow passengers call out to each other:  “Watch your step. Look where you’re walking” which I take as a reference to the uneven volcanic rocks on our path. But a sudden movement underfoot rivets my attention.

A marine iguana stirs. It takes a nanosecond for me to realize that I’m standing in the midst of a large colony of oversized lizards coating the entire surface of surrounding black lava rocks. So these are the creatures Darwin referred to as “disgusting . . . clumsy . . .  imps of darkness.”

Sure they spit from time to time as they expel sea salt from their glands, leaving them with little white crowns. But I’m entranced by these gentle lizards. Most stand frozen, some resting on top of others, playing their own primitive version of the children’s game, “Statues.” The sight is all the more remarkable because of their size and abundance. Gradually, as the iguanas are warmed by the sun, they begin to move, with some heading out toward sea, searching for food.

Not everyone who visits the Galapagos Islands makes it this far west to Fernandina. But it’s high on my list of favorite islands. Not just for the marine iguanas, the only seagoing lizards in the world, but also for the chance to see the endemic (native to Fernandina) flightless cormorant.

Our naturalist guides, Alex and Jorge, explain that the cormorant evolved without the need to fly since they have no predators to fear on the island and food is close by.

Fernandina is also worth a visit because not only is it the youngest of the Galapagos Islands, but also one of the most active volcanically. Alex shares his childhood memory of the sound wave from the 1968 explosion that pushed him to the ground on San Cristobal, over 200 kilometers (almost 125 miles) away. Alex tell us that the ash from the eruption was carried as far away as the Pacific Northwest and recorded in Colorado as equivalent to the force of 5 nuclear bombs. Yikes.

But all is calm on the day of our sunny visit here. We view the smooth pahoehoe, rope-like lava all around. On Alex’s recommendation, we take time out to sit in this “zen garden of lava” and contemplate the surroundings which he finds “very soothing for the spirit.”

Following lunch on board our small ship, the MV Evolution, we’re off to seahorse-shaped Isabela Island, the largest in the Galapagos.  From our dry landing at Tagus Cove, we take a power hike to Darwin’s Lake with spectacular views of Darwin’s Volcano. We round out our day’s adventure with kayaking, panga snorkeling and a panga ride.

Next up: a 15 hour cruise to North Seymour Island before ending our trip on San Cristobal.

Filed Under: Activities, Baby Boomers and Travel, By Land, By Ship & By Sea, Destinations, Galapagos Islands, Health & Safety Tagged With: Charles Darwin, contemplation, Darwin, Darwin's Lake, Darwin's Volcano, endemic, eruption, Espinosa Point, evolution, Fernandina Island, flightless cormorant, Galapagos Islands, garden, hike, hiking, imps of darkness, Isabela Island, kayaking, lava, lizard, M/V Evolution, marine iguanas, naturalist, North Seymour Island, Pahoehoe lava, panga, panga ride, Punta Espinosa, San Cristobal, Santa Cruz Island, seahorse, snorkeling, spirit, statue, statues, Tagus Cove, volcano, zen

BY Nancy Mueller 24 Comments ON October 9, 2011

When Stomachs Plummet at Sea

Today we visit both the youngest (Fernandina) and the biggest (Isabela) Islands in the Galapagos Archipelago. But first we have to get there . . .

With a 12 – 13 hour cruise ahead of us on somewhat choppy waters, the thought of motion sickness skips across my mind. It shouldn’t be a problem, I reason. After all, before leaving on my small-ship cruise, I had the foresight to check in with my travel doc who recommended wearing a Transderm Scopolamine patch as a preventative measure.

I’ve worn one throughout our cruise ever since our first night aboard the MV Evolution when our crew welcomed us with a Grasshopper cocktail toast, followed by dinner with a first course of pea soup. Something about the green theme made me decide to wear the patch – just in case. Why flirt with the outside possibility of seasickness?

Besides, imagine how different our world would be today had Charles Darwin given in to his dread of motion sickness. If he could handle his trip on the small-ship H.M.S. Beagle, I can cope with my apprehension.  At least I have the patch and dramamine.

As I head into the dining room for dinner, I feel fine but my intuition is on high alert. One look at the set tables is enough for me to decide that I’m not that hungry. Instead, I decide to call it an early night.

For the next several hours, I’m one with our ship as it rocks back and forth, back and forth. I feel my body pulling the boat back to center with each rising crest. It seems the confluence of warm and cold ocean currents that contribute to the diverse marine life in the Galapagos, can also play havoc with sensitive stomachs. While mine feels at risk throughout the night, the good news is that’s as bad as it gets. The patch does the trick. Crisis averted.

In the morning when I make my apologies for missing out on dinner, I’m greeted with knowing nods and smiles. Not to worry. As it turns out, only a handful of passengers had shown up for our gourmet meal. Ah. . . When I express my regret that our chef had worked hard to prepare dinner for so few of us, the response I got was:  “He’s used to it.”

Have you had any close encounters with motion sickness at sea, Wanderboomers? Share your story here ~

Filed Under: Activities, Baby Boomers and Travel, By Land, By Ship & By Sea, Destinations, Food & Dining, Galapagos Islands Tagged With: Charles Darwin, cocktail, Darwin, Dramamine, Fernandina Island, grasshopper, grasshopper cocktail, H.M.S. Beagle, intuition, Isabela Island, M/V Evolution, motion sickness, ocean currents, pea soup, seasickness, Transderm Scopolamine Patch

BY Nancy Mueller 14 Comments ON September 23, 2011

Darwin’s Favorite Island

No two days are the same in the Galapagos, as we experience so much diversity in vegetation, wildlife and landscape among the islands from one day to the next. This morning is no different as we visit Darwin’s favorite one, Santiago (James).

After our “wet landing” at Puerto Egas, we step barefoot onto the black beach sand. 50% of our relatively easy 1.5 mile walk ahead is on compacted ash.

Here’s what caught my eye along the way:

How can you not feel a special fondness for a lovely little crab named Sally lightfoot?

Or this sea turtle doing what sea turtles do best?

When snorkeling among sea turtles later in the morning, our naturalist guide, Alex Cox, advises us to “stay still like floating wood” because these creatures don’t like waving arms or sudden movements. Instead, Alex suggests we put our arms behind our backs or hold them out in front of us to minimize our presence.

Ah – talk about the good life! Nothing like soaking up a few sun rays for this obviously content marine iguana.

After returning to our ship, the MV Evolution, for a fortifying lunch and a splash in the hot tub, we await our first peek of Pinnacle Rock on Bartolome, a small volcanic island off the eastern edge of Santiago.

From here our group divides in two, for those who want to hike up the 371 steps to the island summit for a glorious volcanic view with Pinnacle Rock, and those who’d rather take a panga ride along the shoreline for a view of penguins, sea lions and more Sally lightfoot crabs. It’s a toss-up, but I opt for the panga ride.

I might have missed out on the summit view, but here’s what I saw instead:

The Galapagos Penguin

You-know-who

And just because he was so unbelivably cute, I asked Jorge if he’d snap a few more photos.

How handsome am I?

Lookin’ Good

Let’s face it: Hiking or going on a panga ride, it’s hard to go wrong in the Galapagos Islands.

Ho, hum . . .

What would you most want to see and do in the Galapagos Islands, Wanderboomers?

Filed Under: Activities, Baby Boomers and Travel, By Land, By Ship & By Sea, Destinations Tagged With: Bartolome Island, Darwin, Galapagos penguin, James Island, M/V Evolution, marine iguana, panga, panga ride, Pinnacle Rock, Puerto Egas, Sally lightfoot crab, Santiago Island, sea lions, sea turtles

Hello fellow wanderboomers! I’m a Seattle-based travel journalist, specializing in fun travel adventures for the young at heart. My articles have been featured in Hemispheres, AAA Highroads Magazine and Northwest Travel & Life Magazine where I'm a frequent contributor. When this Wanderboomer isn’t traveling, I help global executives polish their personal and professional brand for long-term results.
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