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BY Nancy Mueller 5 Comments ON July 29, 2015

How to Make the Most of Your Great Escape to Charlevoix, Québec

Parc national des Grands-Jardins

The more I travel to Québec, Canada, the longer I want to stay . . . From following the culinary trail in Montréal, to celebrating Winter Carnival in Québec City, to sampling the restorative spas in Lanaudière and Mauricie . . .

For my latest exploration, I’m off to the charming Charlevoix region an hour northeast of Québec City for a few days of summer play. Infused with the natural beauty of a mountainous landscape, plus the immensity of the St. Lawrence River (Fleuve Saint-Laurent), the area attracts outdoor enthusiasts, art & culture lovers and passionate foodies.

Recreational adventures abound here – hiking, biking, kayaking, whale-watching, and star-gazing, with plenty of culinary discoveries and comfortable lodgings along the way – making Charlevoix, a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve, the perfect getaway for traveling solo, with friends or family.

Take a Hike and Discover the Via Ferrata.

Hotel Le Germain Charlevoix

After an overnight stay and tasty breakfast at Québec City’s Hôtel Royal William in the trendy New St-Roch district, we’re off on our road trip to discover the wonders of Charlevoix. Upon arrival, we drop our bags at Hôtel Le Germain Charlevoix, our home-away-from-home for the night. Contemporary in style, the hotel combines artistic, urban sophistication with country ambiance, in a nod to its cultural and historical roots.

Hiking Parc national des Grands-Jardins

Following a lunch that features flavors of the region, we head out for a light afternoon hike at Parc national des Grands-Jardins. My first clue that our planned activity entails a bit more than light hiking comes when we meet our guide who offers helmets and harnesses for our venture. Uh-oh.

Waivers signed, we start our hike, pausing occasionally to take in the spellbinding views and snap a few photos, and for some of us to catch our breath. Made it!

But wait – our guide leads us to the “Practice Rock,” the first step to the via ferrata circuit on the Mont du Lac des Cygnes. Uh-oh, again.

via ferrata Tourisme Quebec

Way too slowly, it dawns on me: Via ferrata. Translation: “Iron Way.” Ohhh. Now I get it. Mountain climbing, of sorts, with cables and clips and pegs, oh my! Where’s my high school French when I need it?

Willing to keep an open mind for the promise of spectacular views on a safe itinerary, I give it a go, but within a few upward steps, I learn my limit while translating the phrase, “Geez Louise” to my Quebecois host. Instead, I opt to take the trail back down to the lodge and wait for the others to follow. But for other wanderboomers in our group, the via ferrata proves irresistible. Challenging, sure, but ultimately rewarding. The rest of us applaud their accomplishment as we head to Le Saint-Pub Microbrewery in the heart of Baie-Saint-Paul to celebrate. Cheers!

Go Kayaking on Rivière du Gouffre.

With the new dawn comes a new adventure – river kayaking! After a short, hands-on demo on how to hold and use our paddles, our small group of single and double kayaks heads out on our 6 km (roughly 3.7 miles) expedition. Easy whitewaters and shallow waters make for a fun outing for novice and experienced kayakers alike as we descend down the Rivière du Gouffre to Baie-Saint-Paul.

A few beachings, seaweed entanglements and waves of laughter later, we thank our guide for the chance to explore beautiful Charlevoix from the water’s edge.

Bike Around Isle-aux-Coudres.

After a quick stop to pick up boxed lunches, we board the ferry to Isle-aux-Coudres for our next outdoor adventure, a bike tour of the island, with a few planned stops along the way. My Charlevoix host sets the pace on our tandem bike as we pedal along on the flat, country roads while enjoying the soft summer air and scenic views.

Before long we arrive at our first destination: Les Moulins de L’Isle-aux-Coudres, the unique site of an authentic working watermill, restored windmill and miller’s residence. We watch as guides demonstrate how wheat and buckwheat are ground into flour at the mill, explaining the process in both French and English.

All that biking worked up a thirst! Fortunately, we happen to be close to a cidery, Cidrerie Vergers Pedneault, the next stop on our island tour. Our cider tastings include several of the cidery’s award-winning artisan apple, pear, plum and Saskatoon berry products. Yum!

Discover Innovative Regional Cuisine.

Dining at Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu

Charlevoix is a food lover’s paradise easily discovered by following the region’s Flavor Trail from Petite-Rivière-Saint-François to La Malbaie. Over 40 regional growers, producers and chefs welcome visitors along the trail with delicious gourmet treats like artisan breads and pastries, pates, charcuterie, chocolate, honey, duck, pork, cheese, ciders and beer.

Playing Golf at Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu

After our afternoon adventure on the Isle-aux-Coudres, we check in at the historic Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu overlooking the St. Lawrence River in La Malbaie. On site, we continue our regional and classical cuisine discoveries at Le Charlevoix Restaurant with Executive Chef, Patrick Turcot, who introduces us to delectable trout carpaccio from les Eboulements, pan-seared scallops and foie gras with calvados and apple crisp, seared crab salad and red pepper cream and maple salmon gravlax, puffed quinoa salad and roasted almonds. Time to go hiking, biking and kayaking again!

Enjoy a Night of Star-gazing.

What better evening entertainment than a star-gazing session at the Astronomy Observatory (Observatoire Astronomique)? In partnership with the Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu, the observatory invites guests to search the skies with specialized telescopes under the guidance of scientifically-trained staff. Visitors can also take a self-guided tour of a scale model of the solar system by following a 3 km (just under 2 miles) trail along the St. Lawrence River.

Curious about the landscape and geology of the region? Through exhibits and lectures at the observatory, you can learn how the impact of a 15 billion tons’ meteorite that hit 350 million years ago created the mountainous character of Charlevoix.

Take a Whale-watching Zodiac Cruise.

Whale watching Quebec

On our last day in Charlevoix, we’re all suited-up in weather-resistant gear and ready to start our whale-watching adventure for the chance to see blue, fin, minke, humpback and beluga whales at play. In calm waters, before long we spot several seals near our boat while holding out hope for whale sightings. Success! Not only do we see several fin and minke, but our naturalist on board points to the horizon where a couple of belugas are swimming near shore. Moments later, a mama and baby beluga pass our zodiac where earlier we had watched one whale shoot towards our zodiac like a torpedo, only to veer away at the last moment. Wow.

Hop Aboard the Train Léger de Charlevoix.

Train Leger de Charlevoix

As we near the end of our Charlevoix journey, we have time for one more excursion before returning to Québec City: a rail cruise via The Charlevoix Light Rail Transit. Fun. Easy. Relaxing. We wind our way along the shoreline, mesmerized by views of the stunning river and mountain landscape, daydreaming about our unforgettable Charlevoix adventure.

View from Train Leger de Charlevoix

Many thanks to Tourisme Québec for hosting our days of summer play in Charlevoix!

For more information visit:

Lodging:
Hotel Royal William
Hôtel Le Germain Charlevoix
Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu
Hôtel Chateau Laurier Québec

Activities:
Parc national des Grands-Jardins
Katabatik
Vélo-Coudres
Croisieres AML
Les Moulins de L’Isle-aux-Coudres
Train Leger de Charlevoix

Eateries & Cidery:
Le Saint-Pub Microbrewery
Resto-Boutique La Table
Cidrerie Vergers Pedneault
Pains d’Exclamation
Café Chez Nous

Wander on!

Nancy

What about you, wanderboomers? What’s your favorite place to visit in Quebec? 

Filed Under: Activities, Alabama, Baby Boomers and Travel, By Land, By Ship & By Sea, Canada, Destinations, Hiking, Québec Tagged With: Biking, Charlevoix, hiking, kayaking, Québec, St. Lawrence River, star gazing, via ferrata, whale-watching

BY Nancy Mueller 4 Comments ON June 12, 2013

The Dalles: Family-Friendly Vacation Destination

Here’s why The Dalles, a mere 84 miles east of Portland, Oregon, gets my vote for an ideal vacation destination:

1) Spectacular Scenery

ViewofTheDalles

Want to explore a visually stunning byway? Meander along the magnificent Columbia River as it winds its way from Portland to The Dalles, Oregon to see what I mean.

ViewfromMaryhillMuseum

Go on a cruise or drive along the Columbia River Gorge. Take several hours or several days to experience a variety of vistas and activities.

2) Recreational Activities

What kinds of activities? The Columbia River Gorge creates a natural wind tunnel favored by windsurfers, for starters. Also, outdoor enthusiasts love the easy access to camping grounds, hiking and biking trails  in The Dalles.

HikinginTheDalles

On my late May visit I enjoyed a windy wildflower walk through the Tom McCall Preserve.  A guided hike and tour of historic petroglyphs at Horse Thief Lake State Park came next. To view the petroglyphs which Native Americans consider sacred, visitors must be accompanied by a park ranger.

3) Historical Districts & Landmarks

Start at The Discovery Center and Museum for an overview of the area’s historical and cultural influences. The museum’s inspired award-winning design takes full advantage of its natural setting next to the Columbia River.

TheDallesDiscoveryCenter

Spend several hours wandering through the exhibits, like an early 19th century town and the cargo of Lewis & Clark. View a raptor presentation and take time to stroll the museum grounds. How many of the 40 identified native plant species can you find?

4) Art Murals & Museums

The Dalles’ downtown display of Murals combines art and history by illustrating stories of famous historical events. Purchase a key at The Dalles Chamber of Commerce to activate a talking box at most locations for a voice-recorded description of the events.

MaryhillMuseumofArt

Maryhill Museum of Art stands out on a bluff overlooking the Columbia River on the Washington State side of The Dalles. Originally, railroad executive Samuel Hill intended the building as his hilltop mansion. But its remote location and heavy construction costs derailed his ambitious plans.

Today the museum features works by Auguste Rodin and Orthodox icons contributed by the Queen of Romania. The collection also includes European and American paintings and artifacts of indigenous people of North America.

When you’re ready for a break from viewing the collection, head outside for lunch. Picnic under a canopy of trees on the grounds or on the café deck overlooking the Columbia River.

5) Downtown Shopping

Downtown The Dalles has a treasure in Klindt’s Bookseller’s, the oldest bookstore in Oregon.

PNWBookDisplayatKlindt'sBookstore

First opened in 1870, today the bookstore retains original floors, cabinets and bookshelves – and maybe even the ghost of Edna Weigelt who owned and operated the store from 1927 until her death in 2003. Pay a visit to find out for yourself . . .

I also love to discover unique shops that carry a little bit of everything because you never know what you might need until you see it. Am I right? Happily, you’ll find what you didn’t know you needed at Cowgirl Bloomers, right next door to Klindt’s Bookstore.

CowgirlBloomersinTheDalles

Still so much more to discover in The Dalles . . .

Summer’s just a hop, skip and jump away! Where will you go to play this summer, Wanderboomers?

Filed Under: Activities, Baby Boomers and Travel, By Land, By Ship & By Sea, Destinations, Hiking, Oregon, Pacific Northwest, Portland, The Dalles, Travel Experiences, WA, Washington State Tagged With: Columbia River Gorge, Klindt's Bookstore, Lewis & Clark, Maryhill Museum of Art, recreational activities, The Dalles, The Discovery Center and Museum, Tom McCall preserve, vacation destination

BY Nancy Mueller 2 Comments ON May 10, 2013

Mother's Day Hike to Swamp Monster Trail

HikingWestTigerMountainTrail

Okay, time to dust off those hiking boots and poles and start taking to the trails! Adventurous wanderboomers in the Pacific Northwest will find plenty of hiking trails on Tiger Mountain to satisfy a variety of skill levels.

But if you’re looking for an easy first hike to launch your hiking season and a popular way for intergenerational families to celebrate Mother’s Day outdoors, here’s a good place to start:

SwampMonsterTrail

Swamp Monster Trail on Tiger Mountain is a kid-friendly, young-at-heart, easy-on-the-knees kind of hike. Along the mostly flat 0.6 mile trail, hikers can read a series of seven storyboards that tell the tale of Zoe the Raccoon, who fears that a swamp monster lurks nearby.

TigerMountain

Should you be worried about a possible sighting? Well, anything’s possible in the forest of the Sasquatch or Bigfoot, of course. But let’s just say that I didn’t catch a glimpse of anything out of the ordinary on this particular day. . .

Wander on!

Nancy 

How to Get There:

From Seattle, head East on I-90, to Exit 20. At the end of the exit ramp, turn right, then right again which brings you onto the access road for Tiger Mountain that leads to High Point trailhead. Keep on driving up the gravel road, past the overflow parking area, until you reach another parking area for the trail.

For more Photo Friday fun, check out Delicious Baby.

What about you, wanderboomers? What’s your favorite place to hike? 

Filed Under: Activities, Baby Boomers and Travel, Destinations, Hiking, Pacific Northwest, Seattle, Travel Experiences, WA, Washington State Tagged With: Bigfoot, hiking, hiking boots, hiking poles, I-90, intergenerations, Mother's Day, Pacific Northwest, Sasquatch, Swamp Monster Trail, Tiger Mountain, Zoe the Raccoon

Hello fellow wanderboomers! I’m a Seattle-based travel journalist, specializing in fun travel adventures for the young at heart. My articles have been featured in Hemispheres, AAA Highroads Magazine and Northwest Travel & Life Magazine where I'm a frequent contributor. When this Wanderboomer isn’t traveling, I help global executives polish their personal and professional brand for long-term results.
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